#1 actually set up a What’s App group entitled that to communicate about our Greece trip. Isn’t he a hoot? In addition to being a hoot, he has earned a new sobriquet, that of “dear leader”. All I had to do was follow the tall guy in the ecru fedora and I knew I was going in the right direction. #1 and my wife did the majority of the planning for this trip and all 10 participants would heartily agree that they did a bang-up job. I’d also like to thank my wife and Katie for putting together notes on the trip. Since I’m a rapidly aging boomer, relying on my own recollections would result in a lot being left out.
The entire crew, excepting Charlie, flew out of SFO on 10/19. #1, Barbie and Katie got the upgrade, but TCG somehow got swindled out of his. He took it like a mensch. #2 was already in business class because that is how he rolls. The wife and I joined the Hoteliers and TCG in economy plus. Charlie flew out of Logan and was there to greet us when we arrived at the Athens Gate Hotel. I like a 12-hour flight as much as the next guy, but I was fully baked upon arrival and went nighty night while other folks dined at the hotel’s rooftop restaurant with a fantastic view of the Acropolis.
Our first full day in Athens started off with a half-day tour led by Stavros, who was quite knowledgeable. He mentioned he had worked in business for many years but had to make a career change during the severe Greek economic troubles years back. I think he found his true calling, as he kept me rapt with his monologue on Greek culture and history. Among the many sites he showed us were the Olympic Stadium and the National Garden. Lunch that day was at a family run joint called Bairaktaris, featuring traditional Greek food, walls plastered with pictures of the owner and local celebs, and two fine musicians. One was on guitar and the other was on an instrument that probably only the Hotelier could name. I had the first of my many delectable encounters with chicken souvlaki. I had wanted fries, but the waiter said “chips, no fries”. I kid. The fries were good as well. And the whole gang powered down a ton of tzatziki. I cabbed it back while the rest of the folks walked around The Plaka.
Dinner that night was at Bandiera, which had been recommended by the Hotelier’s daughter. I don’t believe that anyone was disappointed, and the quality food was surprisingly inexpensive. We did not have the greatest experience with red wine on this trip, but we had a good bottle that evening. My only mistake was ordering the whole fish vs. the fillet, but I managed. This meal was also where TCG kicked off his personal Ouzo tour.
We were off early the next day to catch the ferry to Mykonos. We encountered quite a bit of rough weather, which caused Charley dyspepsia. She had taken her ginger and put her wrist band on, but apparently forgot her tin foil hat. Our driver met us and took us to the Mykonos Beach Hotel, which was a great find. It was by no means luxurious, but it was cheap, had quite a breakfast spread and featured a friendly staff, especially Chris, a Greek woman who spoke English with an Australian accent. They also had a bar and a pool and were within walking distance of the town. My child-like sense of wonder at the beauty of Mykonos was matched by the child-size shower in my room there.
We went into town that first day while waiting for our rooms to be ready. We had a disappointing experience with our first meal at The Veranda in Little Venice. I managed to order the right thing but the Hoteliers struck out. He had something that looked like my frittata if I had left it under the broiler too long. She had a poke bowl that had no poke. Afterwards I started a beautiful relationship with the local taxi industry, but they could not make up their mind whether the ride was 10 euros or 15 euros. I did not care as long as I didn’t have to walk back to the hotel.
That evening we met up with Antonis, who led us on a walking food tour. He was charismatic and well-informed, and we all enjoyed our time with him, noshing on spanakopita and kebobs as he detailed the island’s history, dotting it with facts like the 900 churches that exist for the 18,000 residents. We also stopped into a bakery named Giora, which has been owned by nine generations of the same family, where we had some world class baklava. We ended our tour and said goodbye to Antonis at Captain’s restaurant down by the old port, where we savored the mezze and wine.
The next day was Sunday and scuba day. My wife was supposed to join The Hoteliers, #1 and TCG on that day’s dive, but sadly she had come down with COVID. Fortunately, we had just seen Dr. Joe at SB1’s wedding and he had gotten us Paxlovid before we left. This allowed the wife to only be out of commission for one day, a day that I sat by her side, masked of course, ready to fulfill any need or whim she had. We both missed what was described as one of the best dinners of the trip at Pasta Fresca Barkia. The food and service were enhanced by the lack of our presence.
Monday reunited us with Antonis. We took a smooth 30-minute boat ride to the island of Delos, described by Wikipedia as "one of the most important mythological, historical, and archaeological sites in Greece". Antonis was able to keep our interest up with his ample knowledge as we spent about three hours wandering the island. My legs will never be the same. The highlight for me was seeing a wealthy man's home along with the description of what a day in the life might have been like. The mosaic floor was well-preserved, and they had recently re-installed the columns in the atrium. There was also quite a bit of discussion about phalluses, but I'm not going to elaborate because this is a family blog. Upon our return to Mykonos, we had a late lunch at Rayas. Afterwards, #2 secured us some late evening snacks back at the hotel where we all gathered by the pool for an evening cocktail hour. Chris joined us as well and told us about her family's move from Greece to Australia when she was young.
Tuesday, we headed to Paraga beach, one of the highlights of our trip. We all took a dip in the Aegean, with #1 and I slipping on the mossy rocks but walking away unscathed. A very relaxing day for all was topped off by a fine lunch at Tasos Taverna, which would be closing for the season in a matter of days. The staff and food were top-notch. This shot of me in repose is dedicated to The UK.
We did dinner that night at Nice ‘n Easy. The consensus opinion was that it was not that great, but I enjoyed my meal. I’m a man of simple needs. Not so for #1. The dude has a jones for Stracciatella gelato, so we had to indulge him after dinner. We wandered about aimlessly looking for a particular ice cream shop until someone realized, “Hey, we have smartphones”. I went with chocolate, a fine choice.
We were off to Santorini the following day. This ferry ride was much calmer, after which our driver dropped us off at the beginning of the marble walkway in Oia, where all the action is. We were greeted by the staff of Grand Canava villa, just a few steps up the way, and our bags were whisked there by George. This was the lux part of the trip. Assia was our main contact and took good care of us. She’ll head back to Sofia, Bulgaria when the season is over. Once we settled in, we went right across the walkway for a good meal at Kasteli. I liked the owners, because they know how to bust chops. We did lunch there the next day and when #1 proudly said he and Barbie had been married for 38 years, he said “so she’s like your sister now”. Ouch! That night we got some tasty takeout at PitoGyros and a sufficient alcohol supply from the mini market next door. We made a ritual of watching the sun set every evening. It’s different in Greece.
TCG was our go to guy for breakfast, going out most days to pick up spanakopita. He also tracked down the biggest baklava extant. TCG was always the first one up, mainly because he wanted to go for a nude swim in the pool. I got a few photos of that on the sly, which I plan to sell to Naked Geezers magazine.
What one could not help but notice were the self-absorbed “influencers” all over the place getting their pics snapped. There was a business right up the walkway that catered to them, not only taking the photos but supplying long flowing gowns. I looked great in a blue one. I remember decades ago when we were inundated with Elvis impersonators and someone remarked that in 20 years every fifth person will be one. I think that applies to influencers now. And half of those will have podcasts too.
A few hearty folks trekked down to the Ammoudi port, having to climb hundreds of stairs. You can pay for a donkey ride if you want, but they eschewed that, because they are active seniors. The whole crew ended up down there towards the end of the trip. I think the drivers that take people there have to have nerves of steel. They take vans where I wouldn’t take a Smart Car. We had lunch at Ammoudi Fish Tavern, where they grilled a couple huge fish for us and then filleted them. The whole area down there is as picturesque as it gets.
My wife had set up a cooking class for us at Petra Kouzina in Thira one afternoon, so we had a hands-on experience making Shrimp Saganaki, tzatziki and other delicacies, led by the owner George and his assistant Dina. George had a bit of an ego, but he knew his stuff and it was a pleasant overall experience, especially when we got to eat our work. Someone asked George if he was from Santorini. He said “No, I’m too tall. The locals are all hobbits”.
I’ll tell you about a couple dinners we had at Flora and then no more food talk. Our waitress was Chara and she is now Facebook friends with all of us. We had our own secluded room with a great view of the ocean. We also made friends with the manager, who had spent many years in Canada. The food was excellent both nights and the red wine was good too.
Towards the end of the trip most of the group took a six-mile hike from Oia to Fira. Barbie and I were the only ones with sense enough to avoid it. The two of us took a cab to meet the others and did some shopping before connecting with them at Volkan on the Rocks, a café, brewery and cinema. The views in Fira are stunning. I didn’t take a ton of pics but this one is mine.
We vacated the villa on Halloween and took a quick flight to Athens. Brilliant planning was in evidence once again as it was a mere walk across the street from the airport to our hotel, The Sofitel. TCG bought everyone one last shot of Ouzo that night at dinner and then we all crashed early so we could get out at 4am for our flight. I spent the day following the tall guy with the hat.
What a blast!
