20 Years
Today marks 20 years since I dropped my first post. I was going to title this one “Oh, Mexico” before I realized the momentous date.
We flew off Thursday, delayed several hours by the fog, on what some would say is an ill-advised trip to Mexico. With us are #1 and Barbie and TCG and Katie. The economy plus seats were roomy and once we got in the air, things went smoothly.
As I have probably mentioned several times, blogging is hard. It is made much easier when you can steal whole paragraphs from elsewhere, in this case #1’s good summary of our first day here, which you will find in quotes below. I hope he keeps it up so I can blog some more while here. His help will make this post more informative and less snarky.
This sextet has traveled together several times before, so I’d like to say I expect smooth sailing. However, I am a little concerned as #1 and TCG have been going at it regularly since we got here. #1 is a lanky dude with a long reach, so I pulled TCG aside to provide a little advice. I said “when things blow, you gotta go inside early and pummel him with body shots.”
Here is the start to day 1.
“Xochimilco Our first stop was the floating gardens of Xochimilco. We boarded a trajinera—a colorful, flat-bottomed boat—large enough to hold 20 people. There are no motors or oars here; our gondolier pushed us along the canals using a long pole that reached the bottom. The area retains a beautiful rural feel, with locals still growing crops on the chinampas (floating fields) behind the banks. We spotted several bird species, including a Great Blue Heron.”
“A Note on History: Cesar shared that in the late 1940s, Hollywood film companies flocked here. Their interest played a critical role in preserving the canals; without the international spotlight, the area likely would have been paved over during the city’s rapid expansion in the 1950s.”
Later on we went to Coyoacan to visit the Frida Kahlo Museum and to see where Hernan Cortez lived. This is his house.
This is the nearby chapel that he built
And this is Neil Young’s take on Cortez from his album Zuma.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX9k9aoX6gk&list=RDuX9k9aoX6gk&start_radio=1
#1 is thinking about a second career as a restaurant reviewer. His descriptions beat mine, which are usually along the lines of “it was good”.
“We had reservations at Rosetta, a Michelin-starred gem in the Roma district. The neighborhood was buzzing—partly because it was "Shakira Weekend." A massive free concert was scheduled for Sunday in the Centro District with 200,000 people expected. We’ve collectively decided we will not be in that crowd!
The Ambiance Rosetta is housed in a breathtaking historic building with soaring ceilings and vines cascading from the rafters. The walls are adorned with subtle murals of flora and birds. Despite the high ceilings, the room had a warm, manageable hum that made conversation easy.
The Meal Our waiter, Emilio, who grew up in North Hollywood, was exceptional. He guided us through the menu with expertise.
Drinks: Most of us chose a Boulevardier, though Katie opted for a unique Mandarin orange gimlet.
Appetizers: We shared corn tamales, a white peach salad, and rye sourdough served with ant butter. Yes—ground ants mixed into butter. It was earthy, rich, and absolutely delicious.
Main Course: Most of the table chose the sea bass, baked in a delicate pastry dough and served on a bed of succulents. DJ opted for the red snapper, which he thoroughly enjoyed.
We shared a few desserts, caught an Uber back to the hotel, and ended a perfect first day in CDMX.”
We used the same tour company for our second full day in Mexico City. Our guide Stef was a very pleasant and knowledgeable young woman who first brought us to the Templo Mayor to see the Aztec ruins. We saw the altar where they had the sacrifices about every 20 days. The blood would need to run all the way down the steps for it to be considered successful. I suppose if it didn’t they’d just say “bring us another”. I bailed part way through this portion to take a seat in the museum. I met these guys and asked if they wanted to join me for a beer, but they said they were busy.
Next was the Metropolitan Cathedral. TCG, with the bum knee he’ll have replaced later this month, and I took a seat at the repentance altar. I wanted to chat him up a little but he was too busy reviewing his many sins. After lunch I Uber back to the hotel and the rest of the crew went to see the Diego Rivera murals.
I’m going to wrap this up by providing the menu for Pujol, the two Michelin star place we ate at last night. It was expensive, but the same dinner in SF would have been a lot more. We were all duly impressed with the service and food.
This menu features a multi-course selection of Oaxacan-inspired dishes, priced at $3,750 with VAT included.
The corn botanas (Shuba’)
* Baby corn with chapulin mayonnaise, pasilla mixe chile, maguey worm, and chicatana
* Segueza of corn, and pitiona
* Fish garnachita with runner beans and hoja santa
The fresh dishes (Guenda roo yaa)
* Warm almond soup with Isthmus-style pineapple escabeche, poleo, seasonal vegetables, and fish minilla tostada
The warm dishes (Guenda’ro nda’)
* Guetabidxi of blue shrimp, mole amarillito
* OR
* Guetaguu with Mixe-style entomatado and clotted cream
The celebration dishes (Guenda’ro sti sa’)
* Chilatole of huiche squash, squash blossom, and epazote chochoyotas
* OR
* Garnachero-style chicken with Isthmus cake, cabbage, sweet potato, carrot, mustard, pickled chiles, and an apple-quince purée
* OR
* Catch of the day zarandeado, in jalapeño and cilantro mojo, with mayonnaise, beans, and tortillas with chepil
* OR
* Deche guiña: Wagyu mole with estofado and tender beans
Mole madre
* Mole madre with a cumin and peanut mole
Something Sweet (Dxiñá)
* Cheese flan with seasonal fruit and smoked quesillo
* OR
* Guava tamal





